Orrin Evans began his concert speaking about the intersection of the musical art form of jazz and Dr. Martin Luther King during a tribute concert at internationally acclaimed, Zanzibar Blue, in Philadelphia. I finished my bowl of gumbo, macaroni and cheese topped with shredded beef, side order of mean collard greens, and let’s not forget the corn bread. As a food writer, I wanted so badly to tell the pianist to add Soul Food to his medley of African-Americana. But I didn’t want to interrupt the dazzling piano playing, beautiful accompaniment, soul-stirring singing, and powerful excerpts from Dr. King. So, let me add for you this little side dish:
“Martin King wasn’t your typical 25 year old African-American man, but on this night, he may have felt typical. Bothered by the pressures of work and family, he returned home late one evening with a hunger. Yes, he needed food, but he needed a message to deliver. Little did he know that he would find both, in the company of a late night snack.” These are the words of novelist Charles Johnson, English Professor at the University of Washington, and author of “Middle Passage“, in his book of essays, “Dr. King’s Refrigerator, and other Bedtime Stories”. His words are not real. He was not in Dr. King’s kitchen. A more accurate depiction of Dr. King’s figurative kitchen might not have even featured his wonderful wife, Coretta. His kitchen, the unheralded kitchen of the civil rights movement, had an almost unheard of and under appreciated head chef, Georgia Gilmore. Georgia had a reputation for “good greasing” around town. Dr. King gave Georgia money for industrial pots and pans, as well as support to set up her home based catering service. In return, the movement got its unofficial executive dining facility. During the movement, the safety of food was a prime issue and I am not talking about safety from salmonella. Georgia’s was the place where people could find comfort at the table.
From the beginning of the foundation of the nation, from Hercules, the “highly accomplished” Chef of the Presidential household of George Washington in Philadelphia, to Georgia Gilmore’s kitchen being the unofficial kitchen of the civil rights movement, to the current up scaling of soul food by B. Smith and others, African-Americans have spread a melody of culinary influences upon the table of American lifestyle.
So, Mr. Evans’ quartet’s tribute to Martin Luther King and my inclination to add the hunger quenching, people gathering, comfort of soul food to the menu should serve notice to all readers that for Black History Month this year, try something different. Join me in preparing a meal that traces the steps of the African-American tradition around the Table: Dr. King, Lyndon B. Johnson, and the Kennedy’s at Georgia’s table. Mine, on this evening, at Zanzibar Blue. And yours, well, I hope yours is not at the table of a fast food restaurant. I hope these recipes encourage, inspire and celebrate the foundation for human relations, the Table!
Chicken Gumbo
A tribute to the Creole people of Louisiana, with the hope of a speedy recovery from Hurricane Katrina. This easy recipe is pretty much a “toss and cook” appetizer.
Serves many, so please share
8 oz cubed chicken
8 oz smoked sausage, or ham
16 oz shrimp
16 ounces of okra
3 large tomatoes
1 cup chopped onion
1 clove garlic, minced
1 chopped bell pepper, preferably orange for color variety
3 tablespoons of whole wheat flour
½ cup olive oil
1 bay leaf
1 tsp sea salt
½ tsp cayenne pepper
2 quarts of water
1 cup brown rice
Heat olive oil in large pot; add vegetables and sauté for 3 minutes, or until okra is softened. Add meat and cook over medium heat for 4 min. Add remaining ingredients, except water. Cook for 1 min, stirring constantly. Add water and bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer for about 30-45 min., depending on your preference for tenderness of vegetables and thickness of stock. Add brown rice darning last 20 minutes of cooking.
Nutrition information available upon request.
Mac and Cheese
Serves 4 plus
This is a main dish recipe that doesn’t need meat to make a meal.
2 cups of elbow macaroni
3 tablespoons of butter
2 Tbs. of whole wheat flour
¼ cup of milk
1 cup of light cream
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
¼ tsp sea salt
2 cups sharp cheddar cheese
¼ cup parmesan cheese, freshly grated
Shredded Fontina cheese for topping, about 1 cup
¼ cup of white wine
Preheat oven to 350°F. Cook macaroni to manufactures recommendations. While cooking, melt butter in a saucepan. Stir in flour, then milk, wine and cream. Cook until mixture thickens. Add salts, and parmesan cheese, stirring to mix. Place in a casserole pan. Sprinkle a thin layer of Fontina cheese and bake for 30 min, or until browned.
Nutrition information available upon request
Mean Greens
These greens are a variation of Kenyan-style greens. They are full of nutrients and so tasty!
3 tablespoons of olive oil
2 Tbs lemon juice
1 small hot pepper
1 smoked turkey leg
1 tbs molasses
1 teaspoon sugar or splenda
½ tsp sea salt
2 1/2 pounds collard greens
1 tsp Mrs. Dash
1 tbs minced garlic
1 tomato, diced
1 tbs whole wheat flour
1 tbs minced onion
1 tbs vinegar
Heat turkey in water for about 15 min. Add greens and simmer for an additional 15 min. While this simmers, add to a saucepan olive oil, pepper, onion, garlic and stir for about 3 min. Add lemon, molasses, sugar, salt, Mrs. Dash, whole wheat flour and vinegar and cook for 3 more minutes, stirring. Set aside. When greens are to desired tenderness, drain and add sauce pan mixture, mixing to coat. Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, adding tomato during final 3 min. Serve with corn bread and enjoy!
